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	<title><![CDATA[Brewboard->beer brewing]]></title>
	<description>Homebrewing beer discussions</description>
	<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php</link>
	<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 09:23:44 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>30</ttl>
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		<title><![CDATA[Brewboard->beer brewing]]></title>
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		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php</link>
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		<title>The bane of the Homebrewer...</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=115542</link>
		<description><![CDATA[So I am going through the training program of a beer bar here, and the owner had the audacity to write up his own descriptions for nearly every beer style you can imagine. That's all fine and good, but after a bit of reading I found myself yelling at my manual "NO NO NO!". Its so frustrating to me that this is what they TEACH their staff, and large portions are either very poorly worded, or just wrong.]]></description>
		<starter>Thorhale</starter>
		<poster>Thorhale</poster>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2012 09:38:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Tue, 15 May 2012 20:06:14 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">115542</guid>
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		<title>Help with an IPA</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=106266</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'm getting really bored of the kits and have read a decent amount that I think I'm ready to take the plunge into expirimenting and designing my own beers. I'm going to focus on IPA's for a couple of batches. I have taken a look at quite a few IPA recipes to get some ideas and I think I have come up with something to get me started.. let me know what you think. <br /><br />8 pounds of Pale Malt LME<br />2 pounds of Crystal 20L<br />1 pound of Wildflower Honey<br /><br />Hops - 60min boil (in order)<br />2 ounces of Columbus<br />3 ounces of Centennial<br />2 ounces of Cascade (dry hopping 1/2 ounce in secondary)<br /><br />Wyeast 1272 American Ale II<br /><br />Any input is appreciated!]]></description>
		<starter>swingerwc</starter>
		<poster>swingerwc</poster>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 18:28:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Tue, 15 May 2012 05:18:44 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">106266</guid>
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		<title>Dogfish Head World Wide Stout Clone</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=17695</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Previously, I fielded a recipe for this, and on Friday I made it. It tastes great in the brew-pot, and smells hop-heavenly in the fermenter. NOTE* It tried to climb OUT of the 6.5 gallon fermenter I used, having 5.5 gallons of fluid inside. LIght brown foam was oozing out of the airlock within 6 hours of pitching my starter. I had to change it to a 15 gallon carboy to save it.<br /><br />Final recipe:<br />     1/2 lb of rye<br />     1/2 lb roasted Barley<br />     1 lb flaked Barley<br />     1/2 lb Special B<br />     1/2 lb Cara Munich malt<br />Brew abaove at 155 degrees for 60 minutes<br />then add: <br />      12 lbs Extra Dark DME<br />        2 lbs Brown Belgian Candi Sugar<br />        4 tblspoons Black Treacle<br />        4 oz Columbus Hops<br />        4 oz Magnum Hops<br />Boil X 60 minutes, then add<br />        2 oz Amarillo Hops<br />        1 teaspoon Saffron<br /><br />Boil x 10 minutes, then cool to 80 degrees, put in fermenter(allow for MORE HEADSPACE NEXT TIME!)<br />   pitch in starter of London Ale yeast<br /><br />Keep in primary for about 10 days, move to secondary......add 5.7g of Champagne yeast...Dry hop daily with 1 oz Amarillo hops in secondary for 16 days .   continue in secondary until done. Bottle with 1 cup corn sugar for priming.<br /><br />Now, I know some will say that is too much hops...but I think not.<br />The taste is very close to WWS from what I can tell at this time. Good luck!<br />Cost for entire brew was $89  ( I know...but It will be worth it!)]]></description>
		<starter>judoka</starter>
		<poster>brewski09</poster>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Jul 2004 14:28:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Fri, 11 May 2012 02:23:30 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">17695</guid>
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		<title>X-treme Adventures in Homebrewing</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=115383</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Summer is approaching its farewell and I'm getting a brewing itch to do something a little crazy. And...I figure every perilous journey should include a little forethought, right?<br />I brew mostly big beers, so I would say I am familiar with the ins and outs of high OG brewing. I routinely hit pretty close to my target FG on 1.100 beers. BUT this bad boy I'm hoping to land at 1.200+. I know there are other threads discussing these kinds of ventures and I've read them. Here, I am considering a slightly different method of introducing the wort to the yeast, so please let me know what you think. Here goes my recipe and plan of attack:<br /><br />Batch: 6 gal.<br />Mash. Eff. 80%<br />OG: 1.214<br />Run Off: 16 gal.<br /><br />NW Pale 28lb<br />Munich Light 5lb<br />Belgium Aromatic 2lb<br />Crystal 150 2lb<br />Flaked Rye 1lb<br /><br />Light Brown Sugar 3lb (End of fermentation)<br /><br />Summit 2oz (90 min); 1oz (60 min); 1oz (20)<br />Centennial 1oz (10 min); 1oz (5 min)<br /><br /><br />Procedure<br />I will mash low 146-148F. Boil down to 6 gal. <br />Here's the twist: <br />--I plan to drain some of the final runnings into a separate pot and boil it down to 1 gal. at 1.06-1.07 SG and pitch a large starter of wlp099 onto it (considering brewing an APA for a cake). <br />--Employ a sort of intravenous method of introducing the concentrated wort. The idea is to place the concentrated wort in a bucket with a faucet and connect a line from the faucet to the fermenter. I would place the diffusion stone directly under the faucet out, constantly delivering filtered air (this will provide aeration and possitive pressure in the wort dispensing bucket). <br />--Once fermentation is underway, I will set the flow of the concentrated wort to despense over the course of several days, providing a steady and consistent supply of of aerated wort. <br />--After the wort is significantly munched, I would add the 3lbs of brown sugar in steps.<br /><br />Thoughts???]]></description>
		<starter>Bierliebhaber</starter>
		<poster>Bierliebhaber</poster>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Aug 2011 16:20:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Mon, 07 May 2012 22:52:30 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">115383</guid>
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		<title>Sierra Nevada clone-HIGH gravity?</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=115540</link>
		<description>I made a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone, I used WYeast liquid yeast, put it in the fermenting bucket for one week and transferred to a glass car boy for two weeks-dry hopped-just as the recipe calls for. I checked the gravity after the second week in the glass car boy and it was high, .019 so I waited another week, .017 now another week later it is at .014. Usually the gravity has to be around .010? I am afraid if I bottle I will get gueysers (sp?) if the gravity is too high? Is it ok to leave it in the glass carboy another week? Did I do something terribly wrong??</description>
		<starter>sueasinsue</starter>
		<poster>Thorhale</poster>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 May 2012 23:28:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Mon, 07 May 2012 18:11:35 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">115540</guid>
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		<title>Rims heating elememt</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=115541</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Looking for a rims heating element  less than 4500w that is low density, and at least 13in before it folds back (could be as long as 17in) to fit my element tube. Would like it to be a stainless or nickle finish, not a fan of the black incoly or "lime-life" sheathings on so many elements. I found a Camco 3500w ld but is only 7" at the fold, seems pretty short to really be a low density with wort flow. Any ideas on where to find one?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Kansan]]></description>
		<starter>Kansan</starter>
		<poster>Kansan</poster>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 May 2012 21:44:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Sun, 06 May 2012 21:44:17 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">115541</guid>
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		<title>Pop-top beer cans</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=115539</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Two questions and a related topic of interest:<br /><br />1) I found a pop-top on the ground while hiking last weekend (C&O Canal towpath).  I would love to get me some pop-top beer... you know, the 1970's sort of beer cans where the pull-tab separates from the can, then you throw it on the ground, then some barefoot kid steps on it and has to get stitches.  Do these cans still exist?  Anywhere?  Any type of beer (or even soda - it's all about the can)? Any leads for finding cans of pop-top beer would be greatly appreciated.<br /><br />2) I do the kegging and bottling (got a batch of carbonated margarita in the keg now), anybody know how one could go about canning beer?<br /><br />3) On a related topic, just heard about his Churchkey Can Company that is releasing a beer in an even older style steel can, the type you need a churchkey can opener to open.  Beer is probably gross but the can looks cool.<br /><br />Hope you are all doing great.]]></description>
		<starter>mclancy</starter>
		<poster>mclancy</poster>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:44:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Fri, 27 Apr 2012 15:57:48 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">115539</guid>
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		<title>Cleaning advice</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=115538</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have this problem and have tried quite a few things to fix it and was wondering if anyone else might have found a way to take care of it first.<br /><br />I have been using my show tub for cleaning and other brew related chores ever since we installed it. Unfortunately a little keg rubber had transferred to the fiberglass shower floor and I am having a bitch of a time removing it. My girlfriend is anxious to say the least to get it cleaned up as we bought teak patio tiles to put down in he tub to see to it that this didn't happen any more.<br /><br />What would you suggest to get that pesky keg rubber off? Have you had this problem? Did you suggestion work?]]></description>
		<starter>discmann131</starter>
		<poster>discmann131</poster>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Apr 2012 22:22:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Sat, 21 Apr 2012 16:09:40 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">115538</guid>
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		<title>Spring 2012 Bay Area Craft Beer Festival- Saturday, April 21</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=115536</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The weather is gonna be awesome and we have about 40 great mostly local breweries pouring their beers. Some I'm sure you've never had or heard of before. Buy your tix in advance (only $35) and save ten bucks over the price at the door! Is there a better way to spend an afternoon?  <img src="http://www.brewboard.com/style_emoticons/brewboard/beerchug.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":beer chug:" border="0" alt="beerchug.gif" /> <br /><br /><br />Web site: <a href="http://bayareacraftbeerfestival.com/" target="_blank">http://bayareacraftbeerfestival.com/</a><br /><br />facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bay-Area-Craft-Beer-Festival/129573180396415#!/pages/Bay-Area-Craft-Beer-Festival/129573180396415" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bay-Area-Cra...129573180396415</a><br /><br />Online ticket sales: <a href="http://babeerfestival.eventbrite.com/" target="_blank">http://babeerfestival.eventbrite.com/</a><br /><br /><img src="http://www.fotolode.com/images/fstbttms/Brew-Gear/bacbfnewlogo4.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />]]></description>
		<starter>BeerPal</starter>
		<poster>BeerPal</poster>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Apr 2012 17:19:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Thu, 19 Apr 2012 17:19:58 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">115536</guid>
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		<title>Sight Gauge Installation</title>
		<link>http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=115535</link>
		<description><![CDATA[So I got a 16" sight gauge from Morebeer.  My welder attached the threaded fitting to my keggle.  When I got it home and attached the sight glass to the fitting, it is not parallel to the side of the keggle.  It is off by about 10 degrees.<br /><br />1.  Can I calibrate it this way?<br />2.  Will it still be accurate?<br />3.  Any suggestions on how to fix it?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Bill]]></description>
		<starter>bheydt22</starter>
		<poster>BobH</poster>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Apr 2012 21:49:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 12:03:22 +0000</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">115535</guid>
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