how much water should I boil for 5 gal? Options

[buzzkill]

I'm using partial mash with dry extract for a 5 gallon yield, and still not sure if I should fill my brew kettle to 5.5-6.0 gal after I steep the grains in 1.5 gal or so of water and boil. My last batch was an IPA and I wasn't able to hit my starting gravity, so I've been researching a little. Papazian's book says the hops react more efficiently with 2-3 gallons of water in the boil, then fill the primary fermenter with 2-3 gallons of cold distilled water, mix in the wort and aerate.
Others have told me to boil the full 5.5-6 gallons total. What's the best method? I've also been trying to understand IBU measurements, and part of the "equation" deals with % of utilization and volume in gallons. Any advice in this area? I'm trying to expand from just buying Kits and using boxed ingredients.

[rundausaurus]

I'm using partial mash with dry extract for a 5 gallon yield, and still not sure if I should fill my brew kettle to 5.5-6.0 gal after I steep the grains in 1.5 gal or so of water and boil. My last batch was an IPA and I wasn't able to hit my starting gravity, so I've been researching a little. Papazian's book says the hops react more efficiently with 2-3 gallons of water in the boil, then fill the primary fermenter with 2-3 gallons of cold distilled water, mix in the wort and aerate.
Others have told me to boil the full 5.5-6 gallons total. What's the best method? I've also been trying to understand IBU measurements, and part of the "equation" deals with % of utilization and volume in gallons. Any advice in this area? I'm trying to expand from just buying Kits and using boxed ingredients.

You will get the best beer by boiling the full volume.For me 6.5 gals. boiled over 1hr.(the time it takes to get the most from your bittering hops) will yeild 5.5 gals of which I leave 1/2 gal. in the pot(the crud in the bottom) putting 5 gals in the fermenter.I always figure for a 5.5gal. batch knowing this.Hops react more efficiently with a larger boil volume.It's something about the thickness of the wort.The thinner the wort,the better utilization of hops.Check out "beer calculus" It's a free online recipe calculator you can put in all your ingredients,hops adjuncts,etc,and change around your boil volumes, batch volumes,hops utilization with boil volumes,and see how it all works together.Once you figure it out you'll love it,and it will help you figure out how to make your own recipes.At the bottom of the page you will find"hopville"where you can register and check out submitted recipes and save and submit your own.When you do decide on a recipe submit it here and these guys will help you tweak it to make it better.There is a wealth of knowledeable brewers on this site willing to help you out.Happy brewing!! (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/biggrin.gif)

[Mike2753]

For me 6.5 gals. boiled over 1hr.(the time it takes to get the most from your bittering hops) will yeild 5.5 gals of which I leave 1/2 gal. in the pot(the crud in the bottom) putting 5 gals in the fermenter.I always figure for a 5.5gal. batch knowing this.

I agree with rundausaurus. Just make sure you have enough of the DME or Liquid Extract you are using on hand for the batch size you will be boiling. Some kit brews only give you enough to make 5 Gal. By making a 5.5 Gal. batch size, you need to make sure your Original Gravity is right, otherwise, your beer will taste thin and watery.

You can probably check this by using the calculator rundausaurus suggested, put in all your ingredients and a 5.5 Gal. batch size. If the OG number is smaller that your kit details, simply increase your DME. You can buy extra DME at your supply store.

I generally increase my DME about a 1/2 -to- 1 cup, making my OG a little stronger than the recipe calls for....it always makes my beer taste a little better and it insures that I will hit or exceed the OG.

Prost!

[zymological]

I boiled 6.5 on my first full boil a couple weeks ago and ended up with slightly under 5 gallons. I boiled pretty hard though. It's going to vary depending on how hard you boil, the humidity of the air, wind, and the the surface area of wort exposed.

This post has been edited by zymological: Nov 1 2008, 08:05 AM

[buzzkill]

Thanks Rund, Mike, Zymo for the advice! I used about 6.5 gal on my first full boil also, and it too left me just shy of 5 gal. I guess that's just chalked up to experience and developing personal technique. I might of had too much flame on during the boil. I will adjust next time with more DME, I forgot to figure in the extra water that I compensated for in the beginning.

I'm thinking of steeping the grains of my partial mash for my next recipe on my stovetop as opposed to my propane burner. Partially because it's getting cold out where I live, and also I think it would be easier to hold constant temperature. I am concerned that my 9 gallon brewpot is not accurately reading the water temp when steeping since the water is below the temp probe. Any reason to be concerned?

[zymological]

Thanks Rund, Mike, Zymo for the advice! I used about 6.5 gal on my first full boil also, and it too left me just shy of 5 gal. I guess that's just chalked up to experience and developing personal technique. I might of had too much flame on during the boil. I will adjust next time with more DME, I forgot to figure in the extra water that I compensated for in the beginning.

I'm thinking of steeping the grains of my partial mash for my next recipe on my stovetop as opposed to my propane burner. Partially because it's getting cold out where I live, and also I think it would be easier to hold constant temperature. I am concerned that my 9 gallon brewpot is not accurately reading the water temp when steeping since the water is below the temp probe. Any reason to be concerned?

So your brew kettle has a thermometer built in and the end of the thermometer isn't in the liquid? I don't see how it could be giving you an accurate temp if this is the case.

I don't see any reason why to not use your stove inside for the steeping part.

[buzzkill]

So your brew kettle has a thermometer built in and the end of the thermometer isn't in the liquid? I don't see how it could be giving you an accurate temp if this is the case.

I don't see any reason why to not use your stove inside for the steeping part.

it's a 9 gallon pot, but steeping in 1.5 gallons doesn't give me much height from the bottom. The temp probe is about 6 inches from the bottom.

[zymological]

it's a 9 gallon pot, but steeping in 1.5 gallons doesn't give me much height from the bottom. The temp probe is about 6 inches from the bottom.

If we are talking about steeping grains here just steep in the full amount of liquid that you are going to boil. Once you get up to temp you can usually turn off the burner b/c that much liquid isn't cooling off much any time soon.

[MtnBrewer]

If we are talking about steeping grains here just steep in the full amount of liquid that you are going to boil. Once you get up to temp you can usually turn off the burner b/c that much liquid isn't cooling off much any time soon.

I'd recommend not doing this. Steep in about 1.5 qt. of water per lb. of grain. This way, you can use adjuncts like oats (along with some base malt) that you wouldn't otherwise be able to use. If the thermo in your brewpot is too high, then just use a glass thermometer.

[Sampler]

I would say safely.. depending on your boiling time (60min, 75min ,or 90min) you should be good to go with 6.5/ to start. If you use a brew session porgram you can set up your session to compensate for the boil length as well as make any adjustments you may need for each batch.

If you aren't using one currently, it may be just one of your best purchases to come (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/smile.gif)

[zymological]

I'd recommend not doing this. Steep in about 1.5 qt. of water per lb. of grain. This way, you can use adjuncts like oats (along with some base malt) that you wouldn't otherwise be able to use. If the thermo in your brewpot is too high, then just use a glass thermometer.

Maybe I'm missing something here. I thought this guy was actually just doing an extract batch with steeping grains (I know he said mini-mash but then he said steeping grains so...). I've never heard any water to steeping grain ratio before now. If we are talking about a mini-mash I don't know anything about that so you are most likely correct.

[MtnBrewer]

Maybe I'm missing something here. I thought this guy was actually just doing an extract batch with steeping grains (I know he said mini-mash but then he said steeping grains so...). I've never heard any water to steeping grain ratio before now. If we are talking about a mini-mash I don't know anything about that so you are most likely correct.

Well what's the difference between steeping and mashing? It's the pH and the presence of diastatic enzymes, right? So if he gets used to steeping in a smaller quantity of water, then to start doing partial (or mini-) mashes all he has to do is add some base malt.

[zymological]

Well what's the difference between steeping and mashing? It's the pH and the presence of diastatic enzymes, right? So if he gets used to steeping in a smaller quantity of water, then to start doing partial (or mini-) mashes all he has to do is add some base malt.

True.

[Sampler]

I'm using partial mash with dry extract for a 5 gallon yield, and still not sure if I should fill my brew kettle to 5.5-6.0 gal after I steep the grains in 1.5 gal or so of water and boil. My last batch was an IPA and I wasn't able to hit my starting gravity, so I've been researching a little. Papazian's book says the hops react more efficiently with 2-3 gallons of water in the boil, then fill the primary fermenter with 2-3 gallons of cold distilled water, mix in the wort and aerate.
Others have told me to boil the full 5.5-6 gallons total. What's the best method? I've also been trying to understand IBU measurements, and part of the "equation" deals with % of utilization and volume in gallons. Any advice in this area? I'm trying to expand from just buying Kits and using boxed ingredients.

In review of the question I would sayin the process of the boil... IMO it is best to use a full boil (6.5gal). This is based on using all grain instead of extracts (when using extracts I never did full boils). I can't speak thoroughly on the utilization of hop between the 2 methods but I can say that the mass majority of he brews on this site complete full boils.

[rundausaurus]

This thread got me to wondering and thinking I needed to add that when doing a PM that you should probably add the extract late in the boil.Then I thought well, that will help w/ hop utilization.So I went on beer calculus and figured with and w/o the extract late addition.You gain approx. 3 IBU's from your hops by adding your extract late in the boil.Cool huh?