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> All Steamed Up Community Brew, Red Steam
just-cj
post Apr 19 2007, 11:50 PM
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Okay, after a wild and frenetic discussion over several threads (here #1, here #2, here #3) about what to do for our next community brew, here's what it boils down to: a red beer using steam yeast and American hops -- with an imperial option. Here are the all-grain, extract, and partial-mash recipes -- I posted brand names based purely on my own personal biases -- feel free to change as you like. For the hops, I used the defaut alpha values from BeerTools Pro for whole hops -- adjust for your own hops' alpha percent and for pellets, if that's what you're using. Post your comments, adjustments, and experiences below.

Have fun! (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/cheers.gif)

==========

All Steamed Up all grain
5.5 gallons, OG = 1.050-1.052 (75% efficiency), FG = 1.014-1.016, IBU = 30-31, SRM = 15-16

Grains
5 pounds Crisp Maris Otter
5 pounds Weyermann Munich I
8 ounces Dingemans Aromatic (or Weyermann Melanoidin)
6 ounces Dingemans Special B (or Weyermann CaraAroma)
1 ounce Fawcett Roasted Barley

Hops
1 ounce Willamette whole (5.0%) for 60 minutes
0.5 ounces Willamette whole (5.0%) for 30 minutes
0.5 ounces Mt Hood/Liberty/Crystal/Hallertauer (5.0%) for 30 minutes
1 ounce Mt Hood/Liberty/Crystal/Hallertauer (5.0%) at end of boil

Yeast
Wyeast 2112 California Lager or White Labs 810 San Francisco Lager

Directions
Mash low (148-150F) for 60 minutes. Sparge with enough hot water (170-175F) to allow for 5.5 gallons in fermenter after 80 minute boil. Boil for 20 minutes before adding first hops (total boil time = 80 minutes). Ferment at 58-60F until terminal gravity is reached -- you may want to swirl the fermenter several times a day after fermentation slows down to encourage the yeast. Condition cold for ~1 month and then enjoy!

Option
For Imperial version (OG = 1.075-1.077, FG = 1.021-1.023, IBU = 46-47, SRM = 16-17), make the following changes:
-- increase Maris Otter to 10 pounds (other grains stay the same)
-- 2 oz Willamette for 60 min, 0.75 oz each Willamette and Mt Hood for 30 min, 1 oz Mt Hood at end of boil

==========

All Steamed Up extract with steeping grain
5.5 gallons, OG = 1.050-1.052 (65% efficiency), FG = 1.014-1.016, IBU = 30-31, SRM = 15-16

Extract
6 pounds More Beer Munich LME*
1.5 pounds Muntons extra light DME
* Note: Other suppliers also have Munich extract. However, check the percentage of Munich malt used -- some are as low as 20% Munich!

Grains
8 ounces Dingemans Aromatic (or Weyermann Melanoidin)
6 ounces Dingemans Special B (or Weyermann CaraAroma)
1 ounce Fawcett Roasted Barley

Hops
1 ounce Willamette whole (5.0%) for 60 minutes
0.5 ounces Willamette whole (5.0%) for 30 minutes
0.5 ounces Mt Hood/Liberty/Crystal/Hallertauer (5.0%) for 30 minutes
1 ounce Mt Hood/Liberty/Crystal/Hallertauer (5.0%) at end of boil

Yeast
Wyeast 2112 California Lager or White Labs 810 San Francisco Lager

Directions
Steep grains in 3-4 quarts of water at 145-155F for 30 minutes. Collect runnings and then rinse with 3-4 quarts of hot water (~170F). If doing a partial boil, add half the Munich extract at beginning of boil (doing this means you don't need to adjust the amount of hops), then fill brewpot to normal level with dechlorinated water. Add the rest of the Munich extract and the DME with ~10 minutes left in the boil. Boil for 20 minutes before adding first hops (total boil time = 80 minutes). Ferment at 58-60F until terminal gravity is reached -- you may want to swirl the fermenter several times a day after fermentation slows down to encourage the yeast. Condition cold for ~1 month and then enjoy!

Option
For Imperial version (OG = 1.075-1.077, FG = 1.021-1.023, IBU = 46-47, SRM = 16-17), make the following changes:
-- increase DME to 4.5 pounds (other grains stay the same)
-- 2 oz Willamette for 60 min, 0.75 oz each Willamette and Mt Hood for 30 min, 1 oz Mt Hood at end of boil

==========

All Steamed Up partial-mash (for those who can't get Munich extract)
5.5 gallons, OG = 1.050-1.052 (65% efficiency), FG = 1.014-1.016, IBU = 30-31, SRM = 15-16

Extract
4.5 pounds Muntons extra light DME

Grains
3 pounds Weyermann Munich I
8 ounces Dingemans Aromatic (or Weyermann Melanoidin)
6 ounces Dingemans Special B (or Weyermann CaraAroma)
1 ounce Fawcett Roasted Barley

Hops
1 ounce Willamette whole (5.0%) for 60 minutes
0.5 ounces Willamette whole (5.0%) for 30 minutes
0.5 ounces Mt Hood/Liberty/Crystal/Hallertauer (5.0%) for 30 minutes
1 ounce Mt Hood/Liberty/Crystal/Hallertauer (5.0%) at end of boil

Yeast
Wyeast 2112 California Lager or White Labs 810 San Francisco Lager

Directions
Mash grains in 6 quarts of water at 148-150F for 60 minutes. Collect runnings and then rinse grains twice with 4 quarts of hot water (~170F). Fill brewpot to normal level with dechlorinated water. If doing a partial boil, add 2 pounds DME at beginning of boil (doing this means you don't need to adjust the amount of hops). Add the rest of the DME with ~10 minutes left in the boil. Boil for 20 minutes before adding first hops (total boil time = 80 minutes). Ferment at 58-60F until terminal gravity is reached -- you may want to swirl the fermenter several times a day after fermentation slows down to encourage the yeast. Condition cold for ~1 month and then enjoy!

Option
For Imperial version (OG = 1.075-1.077, FG = 1.021-1.023, IBU = 46-47, SRM = 16-17), make the following changes:
-- increase DME to 8 pounds (other grains stay the same)
-- 2 oz Willamette for 60 min, 0.75 oz each Willamette and Mt Hood for 30 min, 1 oz Mt Hood at end of boil

==========
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azmtnbiker
post Apr 20 2007, 12:00 AM
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I really like this grain bill. The hops leave too many options for me CJ, which I am really not complaining. I might need to sub NB for the first 2 additions and get some more crystal for the rest. I will not be able to try the steam yeast just because I have 6 lager strains begging me to try.
I think this might be a good brew to try the 830 and 802 I have on hand. I will be doing a 10 gallon batch split between the 2 yeasts.
I really think this beer could be a good one to split between the steam/lager/ale yeast and see how different they turn out. We are not using any over powering hops so the taste could be determined with the yeast used. Anyways, I guess what I am saying is I cannot wait to hear what yeats people use and how the beer comes out.
(IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/hehe.gif) I might just have to purchase more willamette hops to be closer to the recipe.
Cheers!
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Salsgebom
post Apr 20 2007, 12:14 AM
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whoa that was fast, I feel like we spent a lot more time on the spring ale. No complaints, I'm ready to brew this up early next week. Thanks for the grain adjustment (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/wink.gif) , if this comes out too light for anyone then you can cyber slap me. I'll be doing this with the 2112, melanoidin and crystal options. Best of luck to everyones community brew! (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/cheers.gif)
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just-cj
post Apr 20 2007, 02:49 AM
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QUOTE(azmtnbiker @ Apr 20 2007, 02:00 PM) *
I really like this grain bill. The hops leave too many options for me CJ, which I am really not complaining.
Well, my thinking on the finishing hops was that Mt Hood/Liberty/Crystal/Hallertauer are all similar and it seems like everyone has their own preference, so rather than pick one (which would have been Mt Hood since that's what I have on hand (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/wink.gif) ), I thought I'd leave it open. People would have subbed anyway, so I just saved them the trouble.
QUOTE(Salsgebom @ Apr 20 2007, 02:14 PM) *
whoa that was fast, I feel like we spent a lot more time on the spring ale. No complaints, I'm ready to brew this up early next week. Thanks for the grain adjustment (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/wink.gif) , if this comes out too light for anyone then you can cyber slap me. I'll be doing this with the 2112, melanoidin and crystal options. Best of luck to everyones community brew! (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/cheers.gif)
I know it was faster than before, but it's almost the end of April already and I wanted to get this going before it gets too hot to control fermentation temps -- again, a very selfish reason, but so what! (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/tongue.gif)

Oh, and you'd better believe that a cyber slap has been reserved for you if the color doesn't work out!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/biggrin.gif)

Now I have to order yet another pack of yeast -- if I had a lager or "cool" yeast in the fridge, that's what I'd use, but there's nothing but ale yeasts in there right now. I'll have to think of some other brews to do with the Steam yeast.

I think it was asked before, but does anyone have experience with the Wyeast and White Labs Steam strains? Any insight/comments will be very welcome.
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dirt_mcgirt
post Apr 20 2007, 06:40 AM
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I'm pretty happy with the results. The only slight change I'll make is to use carafa II instead of roasted just because that's what I have on hand and if I buy a lb of roasted I'll probably never use the rest. I don't think that would make one bit of difference though. Nice work CJ, thanks for your help.
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Salsgebom
post Apr 20 2007, 09:46 AM
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Just thought I'd post this link about melanoidin malt, and one of the reasons you might choose that option.
http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat/grain_1.cfm?cat=147
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lowendfrequency
post Apr 20 2007, 09:50 AM
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Excellent looking recipe. This will be one of my first batches on my own AG setup (I've done several on other's equipment), so I may boost the munich and MO to account for the poor efficiency I'm expecting. Perhaps I'll do well and make stronger beer... I can live with that. I'll be using Mt. Hood at 30 and Liberty at flameout. I will brew it, yeast will ferment it, pints will be drunk and it will taste good. (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/cheers.gif)
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doobahstop
post Apr 20 2007, 09:38 PM
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I am probably going to do 20 gallons of this because I have a few events this summer where the beer will be great. Maybe 10 gallons imperial, 10 gallons midrange. Good work everyone on getting this together. Good luck everyone!
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Howie
post Apr 20 2007, 11:20 PM
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QUOTE(just-cj @ Apr 20 2007, 03:49 AM) *
I'll have to think of some other brews to do with the Steam yeast.



2112 makes a fine Blonde Ale!! I used a fairly simple grain bill, light hopping with Mt Hood and this yeast. Some light fruitiness, but also a lot of lager characteristics, which I think works well for that style. That one got a ribbon.


QUOTE
I think it was asked before, but does anyone have experience with the Wyeast and White Labs Steam strains? Any insight/comments will be very welcome.


When I made that blonde ale, I fermented in the mid-upper 50s. It throws a LOT of sulphur, at least it did with me. I also used a servo tablet, not sure if that made a difference. I think I made a 2.5 qt starter, refrigerated, then pitched the slurry - it was one clear starter!!!

It took a long time to get going, but then it went absoutely crazy during the ferment. I don't know if it's my something with my water or what, but I rarely get more than an inch or two of krausen on ferments, no matter what yeast. This thing was very close to needing a blowoff!!! Again, that could be do to the servo.

I think I did 3-4 weeks in the primary and 3-4 weeks in the keg. It took a while for the yeast to drop out, but when it did, it was very, very clear. I added gelatin in the keg.
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Salsgebom
post Apr 22 2007, 07:11 PM
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grains crushed, brewing Tuesday. I decided against the half/half 30 minute addition to save buying an extra bag of hops. So it'll be a full oz of crystal @ 30.
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just-cj
post Apr 23 2007, 06:14 PM
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You could always just put both hops in the same bag. (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/wink.gif)

Definitely let us know how it goes for you -- I think you're the first to brew it up. I'm still a couple weeks away.
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Salsgebom
post Apr 23 2007, 09:18 PM
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QUOTE(just-cj @ Apr 23 2007, 07:14 PM) *
You could always just put both hops in the same bag. (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/wink.gif)


I'm referring to the 1oz packages sold at the LHBS. To do this recipe exactly I'd be left with extra willamette and crystal. This way I can buy 3oz instead of 4.
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just-cj
post Apr 23 2007, 09:39 PM
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Okay, got it. Since I don't have a local shop, I always buy in bulk and I sometimes forget little things like that. (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/cool.gif)
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lowendfrequency
post Apr 24 2007, 10:40 AM
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I've picked up most of my ingredients and a shiny new grain mill. I was adjusting the amount of munich and MO in the recipe to compensate for my expected poor efficiency and a thought occured to me. Will boosting these affect my color? Is color tied in directly with efficiency or is it dependent solely on quantity? I guess another question would be, is efficiency merely my ability to convert starches to sugars or is it also my ability to extract from the grain? Is malt flavor tied in with efficiency as well?

Sorry for all the questions but I've found that I make better beer when I stress the little things.


[cheese]And knowing is half the battle![/cheese]
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Salsgebom
post Apr 24 2007, 11:43 AM
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Boosting the grains will affect color- color is based on quantity. An extra pound or two of basemalt will have marginal affects, not worth making additional adjustments to compensate.

I think efficiency has more to do with your ability to extract from grain. A 60+ minute mash should be more than enough for a complete conversion. As for malt flavor and efficiency- its speculated that with lower efficiency you would get more malt flavor assuming you added extra grains. This topic is a tough one, and I've never seen a scientifically proven statement on efficiency.
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