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> Folding 3-teir brew stand made with old bed frames (in progress), I'm not an engineer but I play one on brewboard...
ewanzel
post Oct 1 2007, 12:26 PM
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Inspired by VanderBeer's thread on his folding wooden brew stand, I've started working on an all metal adaptation (or adulteration) made from $10 worth of used bed frames that I picked up at the junk store down the street. I still have a little way to go on this project, but I thought I'd post the "plans" to get any feedback that others may have before I cross the point of no return on this (i.e. potential stability and strength issues). Since I don't know how to weld, I'm through bolting the whole thing with 1/4 inch machine srews. I'm doing this with the bare minimum tools...3 small C clamps, 2 vicegrips, a small grinder, a drill, and an assortment of simple handtools...so it takes some time.

The raw materials:
(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/ewanzel/before.jpg)

The master "plan"
(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/ewanzel/standplan.jpg)

What it will look like folded...if all goes according to plan:
(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/ewanzel/foldedplan.jpg)

If it doesn't rain tonight I'll take some pics of what I have done so far and post for all to see.... I'm hoping to have this up and running by the weekend so I can give it a proper test (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/cheers.gif)
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TProfera
post Oct 1 2007, 12:47 PM
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How are you cutting the bed frame? You might be able to borrow or rent an abrasive cutoff saw if you do not have one. It makes cutting angle iron a cinch. If you travel to Charlotte anytime soon I'd cut it all up for you.

Also, I recommend at least a 5/16" bolt diameter. Buy a number of new quality drill bits before you start. If they go dull see if you have a friend with a drill doctor to sharpen them for you. Sharp bits make life much easier. Use some cutting oil when drilling. It make the drilling go easier, keeps the material, preserves your drill bits, and drill. Deburr your drilled holes before bolting with a deburring tool or a larger drill bit.

This is a nice project, and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

Be sure you wear eye protection when cutting / drilling.

Disregard if you know all this already.
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ewanzel
post Oct 1 2007, 01:23 PM
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QUOTE(TProfera @ Oct 1 2007, 12:47 PM) *
How are you cutting the bed frame? You might be able to borrow or rent an abrasive cutoff saw if you do not have one. It makes cutting angle iron a cinch. If you travel to Charlotte anytime soon I'd cut it all up for you.

Also, I recommend at least a 5/16" bolt diameter. Buy a number of new quality drill bits before you start. If they go dull see if you have a friend with a drill doctor to sharpen them for you. Sharp bits make life much easier. Use some cutting oil when drilling. It make the drilling go easier, keeps the material, preserves your drill bits, and drill. Deburr your drilled holes before bolting with a deburring tool or a larger drill bit.

This is a nice project, and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

Be sure you wear eye protection when cutting / drilling.

Disregard if you know all this already.


I'm using a small grinder with a cut-off disk on it for the cutting...not ideal, but it does the job.

Yeah, I've been eating through drill bits (even with cutting oil). What I've been doing is drilling a 3/16" pilot hole and following up with a 5/16" bit. I already have about 2/3 of this project done and have been using 1/4 bolts so far (you raise a good point about that being a potential downfall)....I think I'll keep the 1/4" in until I'm done (since I have them already) and then do a weight bearing test with water to see if I need to replace them. Thanks for the insights! more pics to come

This post has been edited by ewanzel: Oct 1 2007, 01:24 PM
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sfranklin
post Oct 1 2007, 01:49 PM
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Really nice.....

Do you use an immersion chiller? I am wondering high my brew kettle would have to be to drain through ta CFC and not take all day. How tall is the top most level?

Really very cool. Those pics will also be cool to see.

S
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ewanzel
post Oct 1 2007, 06:58 PM
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QUOTE(sfranklin @ Oct 1 2007, 01:49 PM) *
Really nice.....

Do you use an immersion chiller? I am wondering high my brew kettle would have to be to drain through ta CFC and not take all day. How tall is the top most level?

Really very cool. Those pics will also be cool to see.

S


Yes I use an immersion chiller...no clue how high you would have to have it for a quick flow through a CFC. The top platform is 48" (with the burner the HLT will be about 61" at the bottom of the pot), the MT platform is 43.5", and the boil kettle platform is 8" (with the burner the base of the keggle is 22" - just the right height to drain into a carboy).

As promissed pics of a work in progress:
(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/ewanzel/standinprogress.jpg)

Close up of how I mounted the main legs:
(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/ewanzel/closeupoflegmount.jpg)


I still have to finish the MT platform, cut out a bunch of braces and put them in place, build a subshelf below the MT to hold my LP tank, and a few other odds and ends to call this project complete.
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ewanzel
post Oct 2 2007, 09:12 AM
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QUOTE(Todd @ Oct 1 2007, 07:18 PM) *
+1 on this, 1/4 might seem strong but they are actually fairly weak where the head begins. After you fatigue the bolts by tightening a few times it'll snap clean off. Water alone weights 8 pounds a gallon, use this as your base.

As far as playing a engineer on brewboard you should just stay in a holiday inn express lol.

Edit: Btw if your burning up drills then your spinning them too fast. The rule of thumb is that if you get fractures then your putting to much pressure on the tool, if it burns then your putting to much surface speed and not enough pressure. In other words if your tools are burning up start with a 1/8 pilot and then goto your 5/16 but push harder or slow the rpms down. Also google up sabato point, if you have a bench grinder you can do a three angle grind on a drill that will penetrate anything short of Hillary Clinton.


Just to clarify, I'm not burning up drills...just dulling the hell out of the bits....if I only had a drill doc I'd be set, but instead of shelling out the $80+ for the doc I'll continue to buy a few $6 titanium bits and call it a day.

I'm not trying to argue with you all (or stir the pot), but where are you getting the stats on the load bearing rating of 1/4" machine screws? I looked around the web for a while last night, but found nothing....so I went a head and stood on the lower/boil platform to give it a simple test and it held all 175lbs of me with no issue. 10 gallons is roughly 80lbs...so my step on the platform and do "the twist" test seems to prove contrary to the common knowledge of the board. If it's able to hold x2+ the normal payload with me doing just about everything short of jumping up and down on it doesn't that prove that 1/4" is more then enough for this project? Granted I only tested one platform with weight last night, but I would assume that each platform (and the bolts supporting that platform) would only be responsible for the weight on that platform (i.e. if each individual platform holds the required weight, then the whole structure will hold the total weight it needs to be fully opperational). What am I missing here?
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ewanzel
post Oct 2 2007, 01:13 PM
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I've been in contact with a tech specialist at McFeely's. When I asked her what the max weight rating is on 1/4" machine screws she responded that all zinc plated machine screws are held to the same standard of 60,000 psi. So following my logic (which very well may be flawed), 1/4" square inch should be able to support about 15,000 lbs...am I figuring this out wrong? if I'm right it seems that even 1/4" is overkill for a brewstand considering the most weight that would be on the whole thing is <300lbs.

I'd rather make mistakes with math then heavy pots of hot liquid that will be above my head...help me understand this. As I'm sure you can all understand, if 1/4" will be strong enough I'd rather just use what I have, but I'd rather spend money on screws then a trip to the ER.
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VanderBeer
post Oct 2 2007, 02:39 PM
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Dude, that thing looks sweet! (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/cheers.gif)
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ewanzel
post Oct 8 2007, 08:19 AM
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It's finished, sturdy, and works great...did my first 10 gallon batch on this stand on Sunday. I only took a couple pics but thought I'd share/brag....gravity is my new best friend...no lifting, easy cleaning, I'm a happy brewer. In the end it took me about 2 weekends to finish and only cost about $50.

(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/ewanzel/brewstandfinished.jpg)

(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/ewanzel/brewstandfinished2.jpg)

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beerknight
post Oct 8 2007, 11:10 AM
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That looks great! I have been tossing the idea around of trying to put something together. I only have the one burner right now, but something like this could be in my future. I like the price also! I may have to hit you up for guidance if I ever get myself to that point.
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Given2fly
post Oct 8 2007, 11:57 AM
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Nice job, how does it fold up? Any pictures?

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ewanzel
post Oct 8 2007, 12:03 PM
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no pics of it folded yet...(it got dark on me last night), but I will take some and post soon. basically the MT and Boil sides fold up/inside the legs of the HLT and the legs of the HLT platform pivot in. When folded up the whole thing is roughly 20"x20"x50" with the burners removed. Although I haven't done it yet, I plan to build a rolling platform that I can lift the whole thing on for easy moving.
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ewanzel
post Oct 9 2007, 06:59 PM
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as promissed here's a pic of it folded...still need to do some fine adjustment (i.e. add a few washers so the legs fold in all the way)
(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/ewanzel/standfolded.jpg)
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TProfera
post Nov 9 2007, 02:34 PM
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bump.
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