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> Going Electric - almost there...
stout_fan
post Apr 24 2008, 12:15 PM
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QUOTE(stangbat @ Apr 24 2008, 11:08 AM) *
I've got to learn to solder this stuff. That is so cool. I'm such a hack with a soldering iron and torch though. It is kind of like me and playing pool. For as much pool as I've played in my life, you'd think I would be good. Same goes with soldering.

The big stuff is easy. (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/sarcasm.gif)
Try to solder the small stuff like .060 x .030" resistors after three cups of coffee (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/headbang.gif)

Seriously though dc2002, very nice job, well done.

This post has been edited by stout_fan: Apr 24 2008, 12:16 PM
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Squeeky
post Apr 24 2008, 04:10 PM
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Not to whore out P-J, but the man is a pleasure and a wealth of knowledge. 15 Minutes on the phone and I've learned more about electric brewing then Clio could provide for my future.

P-J I will be contacting you again here soon, just have to find the time to sit down with a pen and paper and absorb as much as possible!

Squeeky
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DJ in KC
post Apr 24 2008, 05:56 PM
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QUOTE(stangbat @ Apr 24 2008, 10:08 AM) *
I've got to learn to solder this stuff. That is so cool. I'm such a hack with a soldering iron and torch though. It is kind of like me and playing pool. For as much pool as I've played in my life, you'd think I would be good. Same goes with soldering.


I've got a huge roll of Stay-Brite and the flux if you want to play with it sometime.
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big t
post Apr 24 2008, 06:40 PM
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That is a cool setup you got there. I really like all that soldering you did on your kettles
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dc2002
post Apr 24 2008, 06:46 PM
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Thank you all!!! would not have been possible without this board!!! (and P-J)...

Like I said in a previous post...wait until you guys see the stirrer setup...

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bakins
post Apr 25 2008, 08:17 AM
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Hey dc2002, when I upgrade to stainless for my kettles, I may hit you up for some soldering help. I chose aluminum first bcs it's easier to drill and it I screw up a 10 gal pot, I'm only out $30. But, you can't solder it...
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dc2002
post Apr 25 2008, 08:43 AM
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Stay brite does make a flux designed for aluminum. Other than the flux - everything else is the same...you can solder brass to aluminum...with the correct flux.
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Ibrew
post Apr 25 2008, 09:10 AM
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As for welding stainless on stainless or even like you, brass on stainless, do you just need the flux (Stay-Clean liqud flux)?
Can I use any kind of silver solder with this flux or I need the Stay-Brite 8 solder?
BTW, really nice job on the sight gauge! (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/shock.gif)
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dc2002
post Apr 25 2008, 09:32 AM
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I have only used stay brite 8 they make a regular stay brite but the "8" from what I have learned from P-J has a wider "plastic" range which suits itself better for what we are trying to accomplish on our breweries...We can all benefit from P-Js vast experience with playing around with this and from what I have observed doing this myself I implicitly trust that this is THE BEST method and materials to perform this task.

As far as the flux - that is the key to getting the solder to stick to both the brass and SS.
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Squeeky
post May 6 2008, 02:55 PM
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Any update with stirrer?
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Push Eject
post May 6 2008, 05:41 PM
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http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Carl's-Electric-HLT
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stangbat
post May 6 2008, 09:24 PM
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I also use a Molon motor for my HLT stirrer. It does get hot, but I attributed this to the fact that 1) it is a non-ventilated motor and is designed to run hot and 2) heat transfer from the stir bar and lid to the motor. So my question: how hot does the motor get with the standoffs? If standoffs are necessary, I'll add them, but I have this sneaking suspicion that due to the way the motor is designed it is going to get hot no matter what.

BTW, as opposed to what you did with the standoffs, I replaced the gearbox bolts with SS bolts and I also used SS locknuts and washers on the underside of my lid. This way any condensation on the underside of the lid only contacts stainless. The main problem was that the bolt heads on the stainless bolts are taller than the ones that come with the Molon motor. So I had to bust out the Dremel and do some "massaging" to get things to work. The whole thing is probably not necessary, but I admit I'm kind of anal at times. (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/wink.gif)

This post has been edited by stangbat: May 6 2008, 09:24 PM
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DJ in KC
post May 6 2008, 10:10 PM
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QUOTE(stangbat @ May 6 2008, 09:24 PM) *
I also use a Molon motor for my HLT stirrer. It does get hot, but I attributed this to the fact that 1) it is a non-ventilated motor and is designed to run hot and 2) heat transfer from the stir bar and lid to the motor. So my question: how hot does the motor get with the standoffs? If standoffs are necessary, I'll add them, but I have this sneaking suspicion that due to the way the motor is designed it is going to get hot no matter what.

BTW, as opposed to what you did with the standoffs, I replaced the gearbox bolts with SS bolts and I also used SS locknuts and washers on the underside of my lid. This way any condensation on the underside of the lid only contacts stainless. The main problem was that the bolt heads on the stainless bolts are taller than the ones that come with the Molon motor. So I had to bust out the Dremel and do some "massaging" to get things to work. The whole thing is probably not necessary, but I admit I'm kind of anal at times. (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/wink.gif)


I'm going to need to do some mods on mine to put the couplers above the lid. Different motor but the same problem....... those standoffs are a great idea and will make this little mod easy. Thanks

dj
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VolFan
post May 8 2008, 07:42 PM
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Well done!

I have all the wiring complete on mine, all Im lacking is mounting the HERMS coil and metal gang boxes to the keg. I am inspired to go the soldering route. I did make a major mistake and drilled the hole for the element about an inch too high. The box will have to be mounted horizontally instead of vertically because it hits the rib. Talk about a major screw up. Mounting it sideways leaves very little contact space.

Is there any particular place to get the solder and flux at? I googled it but didn't know if you knew about a place that sells it cheaper.
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dc2002
post May 11 2008, 11:48 AM
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Ebay would be your best bet...

Stay Brite 8
Stay Clean liquid flux

The stirrer is almost complete with wiring and everything...I just need to tidy everything up in the box and mount the switch in the control box...Been traveling a lot for work lately...it will be all complete in the next week or so..

I really cant wait to use the stirrer...
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