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> Going Electric - almost there...
Sampler
post Aug 4 2008, 06:55 PM
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I just stumbed across this again... so where are the pics of the stir motor?

BTW... the soldering of brass to SS would make a great Youtube video, especailly for us with special needs (IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/hehe.gif)
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dc2002
post Apr 5 2009, 08:50 AM
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I was brewing last week and learned just how well the GFCI works. I was in the middle of the boil and I was holding on to the top of the keggle and all of a sudden poof! and a small flash from the plug.

All power was off and I pulled the cord from the keggle socket. One of the crimp connectors failed and allowed an arc to happen. I did not feel a thing when it happened. I repaired the connection, check the other one and put it back together.

I first checked the sub panel breaker and it did not trip. I then checked the GFCI in my main panel. BINGO. Works as stated...

My boil was completed with this quick 10 minute detour.

Use a GFCI for your electric brewery...It will save your butt.
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ncbeerbrewer
post Apr 5 2009, 08:57 AM
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Thank goodness for GFI.
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dc2002
post Apr 5 2009, 09:05 AM
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It definitely gives me piece of mind since my latest process is to come home for lunch on brewday. Fill up the HLT and Mash tun with all the water I will need. I then fire up the hlt, turn on the stirrer, and prime the pump. Then I head back to work and call the wife when its time to turn on the pump to heat up the strike water.

By the time I'm home I am ready to dough in.
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P-J
post Apr 5 2009, 10:54 AM
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It's great.. You are a man with a plan. Now we have to talk about adding a timer:

MULTIFUNCTION DIGITAL TIMER

Yea, GFCI breakers are life savers..
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dc2002
post Apr 6 2009, 09:34 AM
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I like it!!!

The next thing I need as well is some type of sparge ring with QD's on it that goes through the lid of the cooler...time to recycle my old immersion coil chiller!!!

This post has been edited by dc2002: Apr 6 2009, 09:35 AM
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dc2002
post Feb 18 2010, 09:36 AM
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******WARNING******

A couple fridays ago I was brewing. I fired up the HLT and filled the cooler up with strike water and fired up the pump. I recirc the strike water through the HERMS coil in the HLT to bring it to temp.

Went flawlessly...doughed in and left the garage and tended to some other things around the house.

About 90 mins later I went to start the recirc to mash out and the 240V circuit had no juice. The pump still had power and the stirrer was still running in the HLT but no power to the PID/SSR/Element. I unplugged everything from the wall and opened up the panel.

Turns out one of the crimp connectors going from the 2pole switch to the Element failed - got hot and melted and severed the connection. Since there was no path to ground in proximity of the connection failure on the switch it did not trip the GFCI or breaker for that matter which was the most puzzling part.

So...last night I went through all connections and examined all crimp connections replaced and soldered all of the connections on the 240V circuit.

I do take comfort in knowing if somehow I touched the live leg if I had not unplugged it, the GFCI would most certainly have tripped saving me great pain...the second or third time running the rig I developed a short on the kettle while it was running full out and I was touching the rim...didn't feel a thing...
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enid
post Feb 18 2010, 10:09 PM
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QUOTE
So...last night I went through all connections and examined all crimp connections replaced and soldered all of the connections on the 240V circuit.



I just finished my electric rig last weekend, brewing this Saturday. I didnt feel comfortable with the just crimp connections so I soldered all mine also. Good to know I have it right.
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P-J
post Mar 29 2010, 08:49 PM
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Hey Carl,

We all need an update on your brewery. How about it? Pictures of your boil kettle? How about the stir motor and prop in the HLT? I know it's on Wort-O-Matic - but? Come on!
Looking for info on how it is working today.
Anything you would have done differently? Anything you want to change? Need some new/different fittings?

Paul
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stangbat
post Mar 29 2010, 10:34 PM
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I missed your comment in February, dc2002, but that is good advice. I soldered all my crimped 240v connections. I also didn't trust crimping by itself.
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Blove
post Apr 1 2010, 08:37 AM
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I am accumulating parts for an electric brew system right now. I plan on running 2 4500w elements, one in the BK and the other in the HLT. I have two PID controllers and two ssr's on the way. I've heard mixed messages about going with the GFI breaker. I will probably do it just in case. My biggest question is, Do I need two 240v plugs wired from the main panel to run both elements or can I run one and put power to both through my control panel? Is 30a breaker enough? I don't plan on running both at the same time so I could unplug the HLT after mash out then plug in BK but dont want to if I dont have to. Anyone out there have a two PID drawing?
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stangbat
post Apr 1 2010, 10:50 AM
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QUOTE(Blove @ Apr 1 2010, 08:37 AM) *
I am accumulating parts for an electric brew system right now. I plan on running 2 4500w elements, one in the BK and the other in the HLT. I have two PID controllers and two ssr's on the way. I've heard mixed messages about going with the GFI breaker. I will probably do it just in case. My biggest question is, Do I need two 240v plugs wired from the main panel to run both elements or can I run one and put power to both through my control panel? Is 30a breaker enough? I don't plan on running both at the same time so I could unplug the HLT after mash out then plug in BK but dont want to if I dont have to. Anyone out there have a two PID drawing?

My experience with 240v GFI breakers has been good. I imagine that there can be issues depending on the manufacturer. But I'd go with one.

I have two SSRs and two elements (HLT, kettle). Unfortunately the information is spread between a couple of threads:
http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=73420

http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=79539
I have an updated diagram that is found in the above thread. I also have Word documents with some info. If you are interested, PM me.
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Monster Mash
post Apr 1 2010, 03:30 PM
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A spa panel is the best way to go, they aren't very expensive and they are 50amps.

I brought my 240v into a rotary switch and split it between the relays from there....

(IMG:http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/BelgianBrewer/brewstand/IMG_1722.jpg)
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medtech
post Apr 1 2010, 09:36 PM
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I got lucky because my brewery is 15 feet away from my main panel. I use two 30A gfci breakers, ran some 10/2 to my vent hood/pot stand, and wired in from there. I use two 30A dpst switches into the 30A ssr controlled by a pid on the HLT and a pulse width modulator on the kettle to vary power. There is a 10/2 flexible cord I got from a heavy duty extension cord with twist lock plugs to connect the elements to the brew stand. I use 5500 watt elements in each to brew 10 gallon batches. I have a few pictures on my site but if anyone wants any specific pictures of something let me know. I'm not an expert or anything but did tons of homework before proceeding to be sure everything was safe.

I realize most of you are running to a garage/remote location that makes this whole project a lot more difficult but it sure is nice once it's all hooked up!
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Jess
post Jun 5 2012, 11:09 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/brewboard/goodidea.gif) I just ran across this thread again. Going electric can make so much sense economical that it would be good to dust this article off. A lot of good advice in this one.
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