 All-Electric brewing rig |
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 May 13 2008, 08:34 PM
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#1
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Brewer  Group: Members Posts: 262 Joined: 18-December 07 From: Jax, Fl Member No.: 10,849  |
Here it is. It has been a long journey getting to this point. Watcha guys think? If you see anything wrong or if anything looks like it can be improved let me know.
(IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/BREWRIG-SERVICEPANEL.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/Outlet.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/CONTROLPANEL.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/IMG_0224.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/IMG_0230.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/SSR.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/240CONTROLPANEL.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/120OUTLET.jpg) |
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May 13 2008, 08:35 PM
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#2
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Brewer Group: Members Posts: 262 Joined: 18-December 07 From: Jax, Fl Member No.: 10,849 |
(IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/IMG_0425.jpg)
(IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/BKHEATINGELEMENTWIRING.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/BK.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/Boilingkettle-insideview.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/HLT.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/IMG_0461.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/MLTINSIDEVIEW.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/HLTWHOLE.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/IMG_0470.jpg) (IMG:http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk38/JDFROMJAX/BREWINGRIG.jpg) Trying to come up with a name for her. Any ideas? JD |
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May 13 2008, 08:54 PM
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#3
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 3,660 Joined: 21-October 04 From: Indianapolis, IN Member No.: 2,869 |
Only thing I'd do is label the switches.
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May 13 2008, 09:10 PM
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#4
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 4,213 Joined: 5-September 04 From: KC Metro Area, Kansas side Member No.: 2,652 |
Is the boil kettle going to sit under the control panel as seen in the last pic? If so, you are going to get condensation onto the panel and it will drip back into the kettle. May even damage the wood. If you swap positions with the MT, then you are still going to be fighting condensation. Do you have your stand grounded? Everything else looks good.
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May 13 2008, 09:16 PM
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#5
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Brewer Group: Members Posts: 262 Joined: 18-December 07 From: Jax, Fl Member No.: 10,849 |
QUOTE(George Schmidt @ May 13 2008, 09:54 PM)  Only thing I'd do is label the switches. Yeah. I have brewed with it once since I finally got everything put together. Didn't take long for me to realize how important labeling everything was until I started turning off the wrong things. Thanks, JD |
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May 13 2008, 09:23 PM
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#6
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Brewer Group: Members Posts: 262 Joined: 18-December 07 From: Jax, Fl Member No.: 10,849 |
QUOTE(stangbat @ May 13 2008, 10:10 PM) Is the boil kettle going to sit under the control panel as seen in the last pic? If so, you are going to get condensation onto the panel and it will drip back into the kettle. May even damage the wood. If you swap positions with the MT, then you are still going to be fighting condensation. Do you have your stand grounded? Everything else looks good. I have been trying to think of a better way to orientate the control panel. Any suggestions with the setup I have? No, I haven't grounded my stand. Where would you suggest I ground from and to? Could I just ground from the grounds in my control panel for both the 120 & 240? Thanks, JD |
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May 13 2008, 11:36 PM
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#7
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 1,956 Joined: 8-September 04 From: Castaic, CA Member No.: 2,673 |
The ground for the stand should be connected directly to the ground in the control panel. You should be okay since the pots are grounded and they are directly on the stand but I prefer to have a direct ground on the stand. If that SSR is switched with 110v you may have a problem with over heating without a heat sink, if you are using a DC power source for switching you should be okay.
One other thing to think about is putting strain reliefs on the cables going out of the box. You should be able to tug on them without putting any stress on the contact points. Other then what others have said it looks fuctional and safe to me. This post has been edited by Monster Mash: May 13 2008, 11:43 PM |
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May 14 2008, 12:16 AM
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#8
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 980 Joined: 2-May 06 From: Independence, MO Member No.: 5,503 |
QUOTE(Monster Mash @ May 13 2008, 11:36 PM) If that SSR is switched with 110v you may have a problem with over heating without a heat sink, if you are using a DC power source for switching you should be okay. Whether an SSR is switched by 110 VAC or by low voltage DC has little to nothing to do with needing a heat sink! It is the load being switched that determines that. Anyway, it says that there is a heat sink (not visible in the pic). Jim |
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May 14 2008, 12:18 AM
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#9
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 980 Joined: 2-May 06 From: Independence, MO Member No.: 5,503 |
+1 on strain reliefs!
Jim |
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May 14 2008, 09:04 AM
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#10
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Brewer Group: Members Posts: 262 Joined: 18-December 07 From: Jax, Fl Member No.: 10,849 |
QUOTE(jimdkc @ May 14 2008, 01:18 AM) +1 on strain reliefs! Jim I will be sure to put in strain reliefs. Gonna go do that now. Thanks Jim & Monster Mash. There is a heat sink under the SSR. I just couldn't get my camera in a good position to take a picture of it. With regards to the placement of my control panel. What do you guys think if I put it above my mash tun(thinking that there will be less condensation loss above that vessel), but put some kind of barrier just beneath the control panel that won't allow the condensation to come in contact with it? As for the name. I still feel compelled to call it something. Even if its sounds stupid. Buzz baby or Electra Carmena. I don't know. You guys got any ideas? Thanks, JD |
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May 14 2008, 11:55 AM
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#11
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 1,956 Joined: 8-September 04 From: Castaic, CA Member No.: 2,673 |
QUOTE(jimdkc @ May 14 2008, 12:16 AM) Whether an SSR is switched by 110 VAC or by low voltage DC has little to nothing to do with needing a heat sink! It is the load being switched that determines that. Anyway, it says that there is a heat sink (not visible in the pic). Jim Hmm, I had 110v switched SSR's and they were getting hot, I switched them out for 6vdc SSR's and now they stay cool to the touch. How did that happen? SSR's work with an LED that activates a photosensor inside the unit. If you use a 110v source for switching the SSR requires a large resister and a power MOS to convert that power to low voltage DC to activate the LED which generates more heat. With a low voltage SSR the resister is much smaller and doesn't need to convert the power to DC. When you plug your power source into the SSR it is the same as turning on a light bulb, the energy gets consumed by the device generating heat. The output however is only a switch that allows the energy to flow through, if it is generating heat there that means there is resistance. I know all SSR's get hot but when I switched out my 110v SSR's for the 6vdc ones the heat wasn't nearly as bad. This post has been edited by Monster Mash: May 14 2008, 12:25 PM |
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May 14 2008, 02:07 PM
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#12
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Assistant Brewer Group: Members Posts: 61 Joined: 29-January 08 From: Georgia, USA Member No.: 11,223 |
I'm building something very similar. Same kind of shelf, just using black. I'm using many of the same components, even. I am using two PID's, however. My "control box" is made out of a plastic storage container. All of my 220V stuff (including the sub-panel) is in anotehr storage container. I need to take some pics, but mine is only about 50% done...
So, it looks good so far. |
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May 14 2008, 02:37 PM
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#13
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 4,213 Joined: 5-September 04 From: KC Metro Area, Kansas side Member No.: 2,652 |
As Jim said, it is the load that heats up an SSR. The AC triggered version is just rectified and filtered, so not much heat is generated. I have DC triggered SSRs on my setup and they do get hot. Hot enough that I installed fans on my heatsinks since I didn't get enough airflow past them to make me comfortable.
From some info I found with a quick Google search: QUOTE SSRs generate heat because of the voltage drop present in all semiconductor devices. A 40-A relay, for example, typically drops 1.2 V during conduction and, thus, dissipates 50 W of heat.
This post has been edited by stangbat: May 14 2008, 02:42 PM |
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May 14 2008, 02:43 PM
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#14
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 661 Joined: 19-December 04 Member No.: 3,181 |
QUOTE(stangbat @ May 14 2008, 02:37 PM) As Jim said, it is the load that heats up an SSR. The AC triggered version is just rectified and filtered, so not much heat is generated. I have DC triggered SSRs on my setup and they do get hot. Hot enough that I installed fans on my heatsinks since I didn't get enough airflow past them to make me comfortable. From some info I found with a quick Google search: Maybe he switched to a higher amp SSR |
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May 14 2008, 04:37 PM
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#15
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Brewmaster Group: Members Posts: 1,956 Joined: 8-September 04 From: Castaic, CA Member No.: 2,673 |
My SSR's don't switch high amps so that could be the reason I got the results I did. I only use them for my stir motor and March pump. My 240v side is switched with 3 pole mechanical relays because I wanted both legs off when switched.
Sorry for the hijack!! |
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